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Chapter 14: Frequent
Problems Answered
Along the way
to having his dream lawn, Bud Brownmud encountered a lot of
problems, and his friendly neighbour Scott was always there to
help him out and answer his questions.
Unfortunately,
most people don't have such a knowledgeable, helpful
neighbour. So, here are some answers to questions you might
have.
What do you do if your lawn has
degenerated into an unsightly mess?
You may
wish to consider renovating your lawn. Before you decide to
renovate your lawn, try using the best mowing, watering,
fertilizing, and weed and pest management practices for a year
or two. Pay special attention to problem areas and rake up and
reseed bare or weed-infested spots.
If your lawn is still more
than 50 percent weeds after a few years, it might be time to
consider a complete renovation. Planning is critical because,
during renovation, your soil is unprotected and can easily be
washed away into surface waters.
Doug Green's
Gardening
Late summer or early fall is
usually the best time to establish or renovate cool-season
grass lawns in temperate climates. Temperatures are
moderating, weeds are less competitive, and moisture is
usually adequate.
Follow these 12 steps
carefully:
1. Control perennial
vegetation
This step will keep other
species from competing with your new grass.
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Helpful Hints
Its becoming more acceptable again to use ground
covers in a front yard area to accentuate your grass and
cut down on mowing. If you decide to do this, though,
make sure you either edge both grass and ground cover
weekly or make sure theres a physical barrier between
the ground cover and the grass. This will keep one from
choking out the other.
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The most effective way to
eliminate existing weeds and turf is with non-selective
herbicides that contain the active ingredient glyphosate.
Other non-selective herbicides include glufosinate or an
herbicidal soap formulation. Keep traffic off the grass until
the herbicide dries on the leaves.
These herbicides are designed
to kill any plant on contact but do not kill weed seeds. Once
in contact with the soil, they become inactive. This allows
the new lawn to be planted just 5 to 7 days after
spraying.
To ensure an effective kill,
wait until the vegetation appears chlorotic (yellow.) Then,
either till the vegetation into the soil, or run a slicer or
de-thatching tool over the dead sod.
2. Protect and test
soil
Minimize cultivation and
compaction to maintain good soil structure. If the site needs
grading, this might mean removing and temporarily storing the
topsoil.
Before establishing the final
grade with the topsoil, have it tested by a reputable
soil-testing lab. The information the lab provides will tell
you how much fertilizer, organic matter, and other amendments
are needed to establish a healthy new lawn. Allow two to three
weeks for test results.
3. Establish a rough
grade
Take care of grade problems before
you replant. Now is the time to eliminate low spots and take
care of other drainage problems. Gently grade steep slopes to
make mowing easier. Fracture compacted subsoil layers to help
water move down through the soil profile.
4. Amend and grade
topsoil
Cover the subgrade with at
least 10.2 centimeters (4 inches) of topsoil. Ideally, the
interface between the subgrade and topsoil should be gradual,
not abrupt. Till a few inches of topsoil into the subsoil,
then add the remaining topsoil to the surface. If the topsoil
is high in clay, add compost materials that are good soil
conditioners and have relatively high amounts of nitrogen and
phosphorus. These include:
Bio-solid
composts
Brewery by-product
composts
Animal-manure and yard-trimming
composts
Paper-mill by-product
composts
Sandy soils can be amended by incorporating a
small amount of clay or organic material to enhance water- and
nutrient-holding capacity. Add high-phosphorus starter
fertilizer with about 1 lb. N/307 square feet (0.5 kg. N/92
square meters) and/or pH modifiers such as lime or elemental
sulfur based on information from your soil test.
5. Choose the right
grass
The species and variety you choose will
depend on:
The quality of sod you
expect.
How much work you want to do to maintain
it.
How you plan to use it.
The
characteristics of the site, including the amount of
sun.
Winter-hardiness.
Resistance
to insects and diseases.Planting seed costs less than sodding.
But use sod instead of seed when rapid turf cover is needed
for example, on slopes that need to be protected from erosion.
Most cool-season sods are improved Kentucky bluegrass
varieties because their spreading rhizomes intertwine to form
a strong sod. Use high-phosphate starter fertilizer when
laying sod, just as you would with reseeding.
Keep sod
in the shade so it doesn't dry out and install it as soon as
possible. Lay it in a staggered brick-like fashion, matching
the edges closely.
6. Seed at the right
rate
The larger the seed, the
higher the seeding rate. Studies show that there is no benefit
from seeding more than the recommended rate. Excessive seeding
rates create too much competition between the seedlings.
Seeding at the correct rate or slightly lower encourages
tillering lateral spreading of the grass plants. (Sometimes,
if conditions are less than ideal, a higher seeding rate may
be justified.)
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Specials.
Use a drop spreader or rotary
"spin" seeder calibrated to deliver half of the recommended
seeding rate. Then apply the seed in two different directions
at right angles to each other. T
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Helpful Hints
Raking autumn leaves isnt enough to get rid of
thatch really put your back into it and rake
deep! | his
assures more uniform coverage.
If you are reseeding a
small patch, you can mix 1 part seed to 3 parts soil in a
bucket and then spread the mix over the patch. This will help
you spread the seed evenly.
Ideally, you should end up
with about 15 to 20 seeds per 6 square cm (2.375 square
in.)
7. Rake
lightly
Mix the seed and soil so that
the seed is covered no more than 0.2 to 0.3 cm (0.0625 to
0.125 in.) deep.
8. Firm the
soil
Light rolling assures good
seed-to-soil contact that is needed for the seeds to take up
water and germinate. (For small patches, just firm it with
your feet.) Do not overfill the roller as it may crush seed
 and cause compaction.
A properly rolled seedbed can reduce establishment time by as
much as two weeks.
9. Mulch
Use weed-free straw or marsh
hay to conserve moisture and help prevent erosion. (Avoid
pasture hay as it is often loaded with weed seeds.) Other
effective mulching materials include products made from wood
fiber, excelsior, newsprint, and other kinds of
erosion-control blankets. Products made from a combination of
pelletized newsprint and water-absorbing gel are also
effective.
10.
Water
Germinating seeds and young
seedlings will quickly die if allowed to dry out. Keep
seedbeds moist at all times until seeds emerge. Water only
enough to moisten the surface. Do not over-water, causing
runoff. Gradually reduce water after seedling emergence to
encourage deeper rooting. Once grass covers about 60 percent
of the ground, the surface should be allowed to
dry.
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Sprinklers
11.
Fertilize
About 2 to 3 weeks after
emergence, apply about 1 lb. N/307 square feet (0.5 kg. N/92
square meters.) This will increase shoot density and the
seedlings' ability to withstand diseases such as rust.
12. Mow
When more than 60 percent of
the grass reaches the recommended mowing height (at least 5 to
8 cm [2 to 3.125 in.,) start mowing. Mowing encourages lateral
shoot development, increases stand density, and helps the turf
out-compete weeds. Make sure your mower blade is sharp. Dull
blades will tear young seedlings from the soil.
Be sure to refer back to
this information for the best ways to mow, water, and
fertilize to keep your new lawn healthy.
My lawn has bugs in
it, even though my neighbour's doesn't. Why is that, and
what do I do about it?
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Did You Know?
Beer can be great for your lawn! Once in the spring
and once in the fall, mix up a tonic of 12 ounces of
beer (not light beer,) 12 ounces of Coca-Cola or other
soda, 4 ounces of dish detergent, and 4 ounces of
ammonia. Pour it all into a yard sprayer, apply, and
watch your lawn shine! Each ingredient contains great
food for
grass.
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you ever wondered why your lawn has developed a certain
disease or insect problem and your neighbour's lawn doesn't
seem to have the same problem? It may seem logical that if
your lawn has a disease problem or an insect invasion, then,
the lawns next to you should have the same thing. The only
answer for this question is that each lawn has its own
environment. The growing and maintenance practices on each
lawn vary. A good analogy is that although everyone in a
family may eat the same food and live in the same house,
someone usually ends up sick at some time during the year.
Insect activity and
incidence is dependent on many factors. The type of
grass along with the cultural practices of proper mowing,
watering, fertilization, and thatch control often dictate the
amount of damage that may occur. A weak lawn will show more
damage than a strong, healthy lawn. On the other hand, a
well-maintained lawn may attract more insects. Momma insect
wants to lay her eggs in the area that will supply the most
and best food for her young. Does this mean that if you don't
take care of your lawn, it will not have insect problems? Of
course not, but it does mean that the healthy, well-maintained
lawn will recover faster from an insect invasion then a poor
one. Momma insect may be discriminate about where she lays her
eggs, but, after a while, one lawn looks as good as the
next.
The same is true of
disease problems. It is possible to find just about
every imaginable disease spore present in any lawn. Three
factors need to interact in order for a disease to develop.
The factors are the host plant, the pathogen, and the
environment. It is often called the disease triangle. The
pathogen (the disease-causing organism) will infect the host
plant (your grass) if the environment that favors the disease
to grow is present. A fourth factor ties everything together.
The environment has to exist for a long enough time for the
pathogen to develop and infect the host plant. If this occurs,
then the disease can cause damage to the plant.
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The environment includes the
cultural practices that the lawn receives. The amount
of water and the time of day when the lawn receives water are
critical. Avoid watering in the late afternoon or evening as
this promotes the conditions for many diseases to develop-
cool, dark, and moist. Light frequent waterings will promote a
shallow root system. It is better to water one or two times
per week, but leave the sprinkler in one location for an hour.
This will wet the soil to a depth of 10 to 15 centimeters
(four to six inches) and the roots will go deeper in search of
more water.
Mowing at the proper
height and supplying the proper amount of fertilizer on a
regular basis is also important. It is difficult to
provide a standard recommendation for these two practices as
it will vary based on the type of grass and the geographic
location of the lawn. In regards to grass varieties, some are
more, or less, susceptible to disease or insect infestation.
Your local lawn care professional or county extension office
can provide you with the proper recommendations for mowing,
fertilizing, and grass varieties for your
area.
The last cultural practice is thatch
control. Thatch, an intermingled layer of leaves,
roots, stems, and other organic material that may build-up at
the soil line, can increase the incidence of disease and
insect activity. If the level exceeds 1 centimeter (0.5
inches,) than it can act as an incubation chamber for many
diseases and insects. Core aeration, power raking, and slicing
are all methods used to control thatch build-up. As with
mowing and fertilization, recommendations for thatch reduction
are based on grass variety and geographic location, so contact
a knowledgeable source for your area.
Next time you
wonder why the grass is greener on the other side of the
fence, find out about the care given to that lawn. Better yet,
get the proper information from a professional source. If you
get sick, you see a doctor. If your lawn gets sick, it will
need the right diagnosis from someone that is knowledgeable
about lawn problems. It will save you time and money in the
end and provide you with a better lawn.
 My lawn isn't consistently colorful and
healthy all year round. How can I fix
that?
Chemical applications can reduce insect
damage and help to maintain proper soil nutrients. Proper
seasonal maintenance and evaluation helps to ensure a healthy
environment for lawns, ornamentals, and landscaping. You'll
need to have the correct and properly maintained equipment for
the job (sharp blades, shears, shovels, etc.) and most
importantly, a working knowledge of the job at hand and the
safety issues involved. When in doubt, ask a
professional.
Why does my lawn look "patchy,"
or have a checkerboard quality to it?
"Patchy"
lawns can be caused by equipment damage/over-maintenance,
fungus and disease problems, numerous insects, steepness of
the grass, the quality of the sod, and fertilizer issues just
to name a few. Often, it's a combination of one or more
of these factors.
There are two steps to take. First of
all, improve the existing grass conditions; the grass is not
thin and sparse for nothing. Then add to it. If you don't
address underlying problems, then it will revert to how it was
beforehand, so you may need to aerate with a hollow-tine
aerator or fork, apply a top-dressing, remove thatch,
fertilize, remove weeds, etc.
Adding grass seed while
retaining existing grass is a bit of a hit-and-miss process
and largely dependent on what the weather is like after
seeding. Rake the surface with an ordinary garden rake to
loosen the soil, (preferably not disturbing existing grass too
much,) then sow the seed on top, rake again to cover as much
of it as you can, and water it.
Stay off the grass until it
begins to sprout, watering where necessary. When the grass
starts to come through, don't mow it with the rest of the lawn
until it has thickened up.
This is a good time to apply
a general lawn feed that will also encourage the existing
grass.
It's a bit of a hit-and-miss
process and you may need to repeat it more than once, but you
should get there with patience.
Why are the leaves
turning and falling off my plants and shrubs?
Turning leaves is an annual
occurrence depending upon the species. Usually, shrubs tend to
drop more leaves when they become element-deficient or have
become victim to disease, insects, or improper maintenance.
Too much water is the most common reason. Carefully
assess your watering, and if you're over-watering, cut back on
it.
My lawn has accumulated too much thatch.
How should I thin it out?
Most lawns will tend to
accumulate a surface mat of dead grass and moss, old
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Helpful Hints
Want to use a leaf blower or mulcher*? Do your
research. Each has its pros and cons and you could end
up with exactly the wrong product for your situation,
causing damage to your lawn and inconveniencing
you.
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and aging leaves immediately beneath the growing leaves. This
is known as 'thatch.' As this builds up, it hinders healthy
grass growth and is therefore best removed. If your lawn is
especially springy to walk across, it is probably due to this
thatch.
This thatch is removed by a process known as
scarifying (and no, it doesn't mean sneaking up to the lawn
and shouting "boo.") Scarifying is a process of vigorous
sweeping either manually or with a mechanical device. The
purpose of this is to allow water and fertilizers to more
effectively reach down to the grass roots and to allow the
finer-bladed grasses to grow up more easily.
The traditional way to
scarify is to use a besom, a broom like a witch's broomstick
made of birch twigs, similar to a smaller version of a strong
rake. A more efficient modern alternative is a spring tine
rake.
This is used in a vigorous manner sweeping
across the lawn (sweep from one side and then swap over  to the other, it's excellent
exercise for the waist in particular.) This will give a
growing pile more material (mostly moss) that has been dragged
out from between the growing grass plants. In the process, the
lawn is made more ragged than it was before you started. Don't
worry about this and stop when you've removed a reasonable
amount of material; you could go on and remove it all, but it
would take much longer and you wouldn't get much, if any,
additional benefits from removing it all.
If all this
seems too much like hard work, mechanical scarifies are
available. It is sometimes possible to get an attachment for
your lawnmower, particularly if it is a cylinder mower; you
remove the blades and drop in the scarifier cartridge.
Alternatively, an electrical-power device will do the job
instead; this is like a small cylinder mower with plastic or
metal rake teeth instead of cutting blades.
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