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Chapter 6: Grass Types Part
1
For the first
time in a long while, Bud Brownmud looked out at his wreck of
a lawn and saw some potential. "All right," he said to Scott,
"so what type of grass do you think I should put in
here?"
"Well, it depends," Scott
hedged.
"Depends? You mean for once you don't have a
ready answer?" Bud chuckled and smiled.
Scott laughed,
then said, "Seriously, it depends on what you want out of a
lawn, and what kind of maintenance you're willing to do on it.
We've already talked about your soil and about what types of
grasses do well in our climate — there are several. Now it's
up to you."
St. Augustine Grass
St. Augustine grass is a
widely-used lawn grass along the Gulf Coast in the U.S., in
So uthern Mexico,
throughout the Caribbean region, South America, South Africa,
Western Africa, Australia, and the South Pacific and Hawaiian
Islands. The species is primarily of tropical origin and is
native to sandy beach ridges, fringes of swamps and lagoons,
salty and fresh water marshes, and limestone shorelines. St.
Augustine grass gradually moved inland to naturally open sites
such as streambanks, lakeshores, and other moist sites. It
tolerates a wide range of soil types, but does not withstand
waterlogged or droughty sites.
In the U.S., St. Augustine
grass is found from the Carolinas to Florida and westward
along the Gulf Coast to Texas and in Southern and Central
California. Because of its lack of winter hardiness, St.
Augustine grass is restricted to areas with mild winter
temperatures. Like bermudagrass, St. Augustine thrives
in high temperatures, but the growth of St. Augustine is
better than that of bermudagrass in cool, coastal
climates.
St. Augustine grass is native
to the Gulf of Mexico region, the West Indies, and Western
Africa. For as long as there have been records, St. Augustine
grass has been reported as a seashore pioneer along the
|
Did You Know?
Like many other plants, there are quite a
few varieties of grass that are currently listed as
endangered throughout the
world. | Atlantic coasts of
Africa and the Americas. Prior to 1800, the species was
reported in Uruguay, Brazil, Nigeria, Sierra Leone, the West
Indies, Bermuda and South Carolina. In the Pacific, records
are not nearly as old, but it was reported in Kauai prior to
1800. By 1840, St. Augustine grass had also been collected
from Australia and New Zealand.
Several variants or strains
of St. Augustine grass have been reported. The normal strain
in early records
has a white stigma color and was found to
be a fertile diploid with 18 chromosomes. A sterile triploid
variant with purple-colored stigmas was first collected
around the Cape of Good Hope in 1791. By 1900 it was being
used for lawns in Natal and has since been planted in
Rhodesia, the Congo, Senegal, Australia, and Southern
California. In Florida, it has been planted for lawns since
the 1890's.
St. Augustine grass was moved
inland from coastal regions by man for use in pastures and
lawns. Its requirements, other than mild winter temperatures,
include moist and somewhat fertile soils. St. Augustine grass
will not survive in dry inland areas without supplemental
irrigation. It is not as drought-tolerant or cold-tolerant as
bermudagrass; consequently, its inland movement has been
restricted to states and countries bordering coastal
zones.
This species is called
"St. Augustine grass" and sometimes "carpetgrass" in the
Southeastern United States and in California, "crabgrass" in
Bermuda and the West Indies, "gramillon" in Argentina,
"wiregrass" in St. Helena, and "buffalograss" in Australia and
the South Pacific.
Description
St. Augustine grass,
Stenotaphrum secundatum (Walt.) Kuntze, is a perennial robust
grass widely used for pastures and lawns. In the warmer
climates of the tropics and subtropics, it rivals bermudagrass
in importance.
St. Augustine grass is a
coarse-textured, stoloniferous species that roots at the
nodes. Unlike bermudagrass, St. Augustine grass does not have
rhizomes. Its stems (stolons) and overlapping leaf sheaths are
generally compressed; leaf blades generally folded, abruptly
contracted at the base, rounded at the tip, and smooth; ligule
is reduced to a short fringe of hairs; collar is petiolate and
the sheath greatly compressed and ciliated along the
margins.
Inflorescences mostly terminal, some also
axillary, spike-like (corky) racemes and spikelets imbedded in
main axis; each raceme bearing 1-3 spikelets; spikelets
lanceolate or ovate, awnless and sessile; glumes membranous,
the lower glume less than half as long as the spikelet; lower
floret staminate, upper floret complete and caryopsis ovate to
oblong, 2.0-3.0 mm (0.0625-0.125 in.) long, often failing to
mature.
Use and Adaptation
St. Augustine grass is adapted to moist,
coastal areas with mild winter temperatures. It is known to be
tolerant of high summer temperatures and retains its color at
temperatures as much as 10° lower than those that discolor
bermudagrass.
St. Augustine grass tolerates
moderate shade, being as good or better than other warm season
grasses for shaded sites. However, under densely shaded
conditions, St. Augustine grass develops thin, spindly
turf.
So long as fertility and drainage are adequate,
St. Augustine grass tolerates a wide range of soil types. St.
Augustine grass grows satisfactorily at a pH range from 5.0 to
8.5, but develops a chlorotic appearance in highly alkaline
soils (above pH 7.5). It does not tolerate compacted or
waterlogged soil conditions. St. Augustine grass is highly
tolerant of soil salinity, producing satisfactory growth at
salt levels as high as 16 mmhos. Bermudagrass will tolerate
only slightly higher salt levels.
St. Augustine
grass is used primarily for lawns as it does not tolerate
traffic as well as some other warm-season species. It
produces satisfactory turf at moderate
|
Did You Know?
Grass is 75%
water! | levels of
maintenance, effectively competes with weeds and other
grasses, and has only a few serious pests.
In moist, warm climates, St.
Augustine grass maintains a satisfactory turf cover with only
occasional mowing. In drier climates (below 76.2 cm [30
inches] annual rainfall,) it survives with supplemental
irrigation. At higher
maintenance levels, St. Augustine grass produces a thick,
lush, dark green turf that is highly preferred by
homeowners.
Propagation
As long as St. Augustine
grass has been cultivated, it has been propagated by
vegetative means — stolons, plugs, or sod. Only recently has
the seed production potential of St. Augustine grass been
realized, but, as yet, significant use has not been made of
that potential.
As reported by Long and
Bashaw at Texas A&M University in 1961, only a few strains
of St. Augustine grass are fertile. The common strain of St.
Augustine grass found in Texas is generally fertile; whereas,
the strains used in Florida since before 1900 were found to be
sterile.
St. Augustine grass is
readily established from sod since the species is vigorous and
spreads rapidly by creeping stolons. Sod plugs or stolons
planted on 0.33 to 0.67 meters (1.1 to 2.2 feet) spacings can
be expected to cover in one growing season. In small lawn
plantings, 12 to 24 square centimeter (4.75 to 9.50 square
inch) sod plugs are planted on 0.33 to 0.67 meters (1.1 to 2.2
feet) spacings. St. Augustine grass can be successfully
established from plugs anytime during the growing season if
water is available.
Unlike bermudagrass,
St. Augustine grass is not effectively propagated from
stolons.
St. Augustine grass stolons are much
more prone to desiccation than bermudagrass. Also,
bermudagrass roots much faster and has a faster growth rate
than St. Augus
|
Did You Know?
A 2500 square foot (750 square meter) lawn
releases enough oxygen for an entire family of four, all
while absorbing harmful toxins and other
gases. |
tine grass. As a result, St.
Augustine grass is not successfully established by
hydromulching or broadcasting stolons.
So me St. Augustine grass
strains can be established from seed by planting at 0.15 to
0.22 kg of PLS per 92 square meters (0.30 to 0.44 lbs of PLS
per 307 square feet.) The rate of establishment from seed
planted at that rate would be about the same as for 5 cm (2
in.) sod plugs planted on 0.33 meter (1.1 feet) spacings. A
seeded St. Augustine grass lawn should be kept moist for
several weeks after planting to obtain a satisfactory cover of
grass. Only after the seedlings have begun to spread can the
grass tolerate dry conditions. St. Augustine grass should be
seeded in late spring to early
summer.
Fertilization during the establishment
period (first three months after planting) is critical to
developing a complete cover of St. Augustine grass. A
starter fertilizer (one high in phosphorous) or a balanced,
complete fertilizer should be applied at planting time.
Subsequent applications of nitrogen at monthly intervals at a
rate of 0.5 kg per 92 square meters (1 lb. per 307 square
feet) will promote rapid spread of St. Augustine grass plugs.
Weeds can be controlled pre-emerge with atrazine or
post-emerge with asulam (Asulox) and hormone-type herbicides
(2,4-D, MCPP, dicamba).
Management
After establishment, the
success of St. Augustine grass as a lawn grass depends largely
on management. Mowing, fertilization, and supplemental
watering are required to maintain a dense, green, weed-free
turf of St. Augustine grass. In coastal areas where
rainfall is adequate, St. Augustine grass will survive with
little care. In inland areas, where rainfall is less
dependable, close management of water is required to maintain
a satisfactory lawn with St. Augustine grass.
The growth rate of
St. Augustine grass is dependent on temperature, moisture
availability, and nutrient availability. Any one of
these factors can limit the rate of growth of this species. In
the spring with mild daytime temperatures and cool night
temperatures, St. Augustine grass greens up, but doesn't grow
much. As day and night temperatures increase during late
spring and summer, the growth rate increases. Thus, an
established turf of St. Augustine grass may require mowing
every 2 weeks in early spring and as often as every five days
by late spring if nitrogen fertilizer is applied.
During the fall, as
temperatures cool, St. Augustine grass maintains its dark
green color, but its growth rate declines sharply. Mowing
frequency may be reduced to twice monthly during late fall and
early winter.
Mowing heights may range from
2.5 to 7.5 cm. (1 to 3 in.) depending on the frequency of
mowing and the degree of shade present. At mowing heights
below 5 cm (2 in.,) St. Augustine grass should be mowed every
five days during late spring and summer. At a 5 cm. (2 in.)
mowing height, a 7 to 10-day mowing schedule is adequate.
Above 5 cm. (2 in.,) St. Augustine grass should be mowed at 10
to 14-day intervals. In moderate to dense shade, St. Augustine
grass should be mowed at about 7.5 cm (3 in.) at 10-day
intervals.
During the fall, mowing
height should be raised about 2 cm. (0.75 in.) to increase
total leaf area of the turf. The increased leaf area will help
the grass accumulate energy reserves to get through the
winter.
The greater leaf area will
also help prevent weed invasion during the dormant season.
St. Augustine grass is
responsive to nitrogen fertilizer in terms of color and growth
rate.
|
Helpful Hints
Having trouble getting your St. Augustine
to propagate? You may want to try a new variety that’s
now available called “Palmetto.” It takes a quicker hold
than its parent grass and can grow in more difficult
conditions.
| On sandy
soils, St. Augustine grass requires about 0.5 kg. (1 lb.) of
nitrogen per 92 square meters (307 square feet) per month
during the growing season to maintain satisfactory color and
density. At rates above that, St. Augustine grass produces
lush growth that is highly susceptible to insects and
diseases. On heavier-textured soils, 0.25 kg. (0.5 lbs.) of
nitrogen every month is adequate to maintain good color and
growth. Thatch accumulation is also a problem when nitrogen
fertilization exceeds the required rate.
Late fall fertilization of
St. Augustine grass helps maintain color and density of the
lawn into the winter and promotes early recovery of the grass
in the spring. Thus, to extend the length of time a St.
Augustine lawn is attractive, the lawn should receive about
1/2 kg. (1 lb.) of nitrogen every 30 to 60 days from early
spring through late fall.
St. Augustine grass
is sensitive to iron deficiency and readily develops chlorotic
symptoms in alkaline or iron-deficient soils. This
deficiency can be corrected with foliar applications, iron
sulfate, or iron chelate. Soil applications of iron sources to
alkaline soils are less effective than foliar
applications.
Potassium requirements for St. Augustine
grass are about the same as for other grasses. About half as
much potassium as nitrogen is required to maintain growth.
Potassium has been shown to increase root growth, cold
tolerance, and drought tolerance in St. Augustine grass.
Phosphorous requirements for
established St. Augustine grass are very low and are generally
met by the soil itself. Occasional applications of a
phosphorous fertilizer material may be required. Newly planted
St. Augustine grass will respond to phosphorous fertilizers
with an increased rate of spread.
Bermudagrass
Description
Bermudagrass (Cynodon spp.)
is a major turf species for sports fields, lawns, parks, golf
courses, and general utility turfs in Australia, Africa,
India, South America and the Southern region of the United
States. It is found in over 100 counties throughout the
tropical and subtropical areas of the world. Common
bermudagrass, C. dactylon, naturalized throughout the warmer
regions of the United States, was  introduced into this country during the
colonial period from Africa or India. The earliest
introductions are not recorded, but bermudagrass is listed as
one of the principal grasses in the Southern States in Mease's
Geological Account of the United States published in
1807.
The genus Cynodon comprises nine species with C.
dactylon being the most widespread. That C. dactylon is a
tetraploid with broad genetic variability serves to explain
its widespread distribution. Other Cynodon species have a more
limited natural distribution and are often restricted to one
particular habitat. C. dactylon is highly fertile, whereas the
diploid species such as C. transvaalensis rarely produce
viable seed.
C. dactylon (L.) Pers is
commonly called bermudagrass in many areas of the world. But,
it is also known by numerous other names including "Kweekgras"
(S. Africa,) couch grass (Australia and Africa,) devil's grass
(India,) and gramillia (Argentina.) The variety of names given
this species attests to its wide distribution and to the fact
that it is the object of abuse and scorn.
In addition to being a widely
used species for forage and turf, C. dactylon is a serious
weed for many crops. Being a vigorous, stoloniferous grass, it
rapidly invades crops in high rainfall or irrigated areas. C.
dactylon is ranked among the three most troublesome weeds in
sugarcane, cotto n, corn, and vineyards in many countries. It is a
difficult weed to eradicate because of its seed production and
deep rhizomes.
In the United States, the
distribution of bermudagrass extends from New Jersey and
Maryland southward to Florida and westward to Kansas and
Texas. Thanks to irrigation, its distribution extends westward
to southern New Mexico, Arizona, and to most major valleys in
California. The development of more cold-tolerant turf-type
varieties of bermudagrass such as U-3 and Midiron has
increased interest in the species near its northern limits.
Low winter temperature is the factor that limits the northward
distribution of bermudagrass.
Nature
Hills Nursery Weekly Specials
Use and Adaptation
Bermudagrass is a
warm-season perennial species adapted to tropical and
subtropical climates. It grows best under extended periods of
high temperatures, mild winters, and moderate to high
rainfall. Temperature is the main environmental
factor that limits its adaptability to tropical and
subtropical areas of the world. The northern limits of
bermudagrass extend into the transitional zone of the United
States where low temperatures seldom drop below -12ºC (10(F.)
In general, temperatures below -1°C (30(F) kill the leaves and
stems of bermudagrass. Research has demonstrated that
bermudagrass will continue to grow with night temperatures as
low as 1.1°C (34°F) if day temperatures are near 21°C
(70°F.)
However, when average temperatures drop below
10°C (50°F,) growth stops and the grass begins to discolor. At
the onset of low temperatures in the fall and winter,
bermudagrass begins to discolor, protein fractions change in
composition, and reserve carbohydrates increase in the stems
and rhizomes. After the
|
Did You Know?
Bermudagrass is one of the more popular choices of
grass for sporting venues from American football
stadiums to golf
courses. | first
killing frost, leaves and stems of bermudagrass remain dormant
until average daily temperatures rise above 10°C (50°F) for
several days. The roots and rhizomes of bermudagrass continue
to grow several weeks after the leaves and stems stop
growing.
In warm frost-free climates, bermudagrass
remains green throughout the year, but growth is significantly
reduced at the onset of cool nights. The species makes the
best growth where average daily temperatures are above 24°C
(75°F.) Optimum daytime temperature for bermudagrass is
between 35° and 38°C (95° and 100°F.)
Soil temperature, as
influenced by air temperature, is also important to the growth
and development of bermudagrass turf. Soil temperatures above
18°C (64°F) are required for significant growth of rhizomes,
roots, and stolons. Optimum soil temperature for root growth
is around 27°C (81°F.) Bermudagrass has a high light
requirement and does not grow well in low-light (shaded)
conditions. The duration of the light period (day length) also
influences growth and development of bermudagrass. Both
increased light intensity and day length increase rhizome,
stolon, and leaf growth in bermudagrass. At low-light
intensities (less than 60% full sunlight,) bermudagrass
develops narrow elongated leaves, thin upright stems,
elongated internodes, and weak rhizomes. Consequently,
bermudagrass develops a very sparse turf under moderately
shaded (60-80% full sunlight) conditions.
Bermudagrass is found
in tropical and subtropical climates with 63 to 254 cm (25 to
100 in.) of annual rainfall, but it also survives in arid
climates along waterways and in irrigated areas.
Where annual rainfall is below 50 cm (20 in.) per year,
bermudagrass requires irrigation to survive. Bermudagrass
develops in a semi-dormant state during very dry conditions,
but has the capability of surviving extreme droughts.
Rhizomes of bermudagrass can
lose 50% or more of their weight and still recover when
favorable moisture develops. Generally, common bermudagrass,
or tetraploids of C. dactylon, have the deepest root and
rhizome penetration and can better withstand prolonged drought
periods.
Common bermudagrass also has
the characteristic of producing seedheads during stress conditions such
as drought. Thus, the seeds provide another method by which
the species can survive extreme drought. Some natural biotypes
of C. dactylon produce numerous seeds. The seeds are very
small with about 4,400,000 seeds per kg (2 lbs.)
Bermudagrass grows well on a
wide variety of soils from heavy clays to deep sands, provided
fertility is not limited. It tolerates both acid and alkaline
soil conditions and is highly tolerant to saline conditions.
Bermudagrass survives some
flooding but does best on well-drained sites. Although it may
persist under low fertility, bermudagrass has a high nitrogen
requirement for good quality turf.
Bermudagrass has numerous
turf uses. It has been suggested that if ever a plant deserved
a monument for its service to mankind, it was bermudagrass for
what it has done to prevent soil erosion, to stabilize ditch
banks, roadsides, and airfields, to beautify landscapes, and
to provide a smooth, resilient playing surface for sports
fields and playgrounds. Bermudagrass also provides hay and
pasture for livestock throughout the tropical and subtropical
areas of the world Propagation
Common bermudagrass (C.
dactylon (L) Pers.) is the only widely used turf-type
bermudagrass variety that can be established from seed. Nu-Mex
Sahara, Princess, and Sonesta are new seeded varieties that
have seen limited use in the southwestern U.S. All hybrid
bermudagrasses are sterile and must be propagated vegetatively
by stolons, rhizomes, or sod.
Certified
bermudagrass seed should be planted at a rate of 0.25 to 0.50
kg of seed per 92 sq m. (0.50 to 1 lb. of seed per 307 sq.
ft.) Spring and summer plantings should utilize
hulled bermudagrass seed for faster germination. Late fall and
winter plantings should be with unhulled bermudagrass seed to
delay germination of a significant amount of the seed until
more favorable conditions occur in the spring. Unhulled
bermudagrass seed might be planted together with annual
ryegrass in the fall to provide temporary cover and protection
from soil erosion during winter months. Annual ryegrass will
delay the
|
Helpful Hints
If your grass is looking burnt but the temperature
has been reasonable and you haven’t overfertilized, it
may be a dog’s loving touch. The urea salts in dog urine
can result in a burnt appearance on your grass, so try
to keep an eye on Fido and make sure he’s not doing his
business in those spots. If you don’t have a dog, you
may want to watch for neighbourhood pups who find your
grass a little greener than their
owners’.
| development
of a bermudagrass turf, but it may be needed for cover and
protection.
When planting in the fall and
winter on areas subject to severe erosion, wheat or rye can be
drilled with unhulled bermudagrass seed. The wheat or rye will
establish quickly and provide some cover during winter months.
The small grains also provide less competition than ryegrass
to seedling bermudagrass in late spring.
Bermudagrass sprigs or
stolons for planting should be freshly harvested and protected
from desiccation by wind and sun. Also, they should not be
subject to excessive heating that occurs when moist planting
material is tightly packed or covered for several days. Sprigs
are usually distinguished from stolons in that sprigs consist
of stolons with roots and rhizomes, whereas stolons consist of
parts above ground only. Sprigs are produced by shredding
harvested sod or by sprig harvesters.
Stolons are generally
harvested with a vertical mower or a flail mower set close to
the ground. Sprigs will tolerate slightly more environmental
stress during planting and establishment because of the energy
reserves in the roots and rhizomes.
Sprigs or stolons should be
planted at 0.2 to 0.5 cubic meters per 92 sq. m. (0.60 to 1.67
cubic feet per 307 sq. ft.) depending on the rate of cover
required. Higher planting rates up to .88 or more cubic m. per
92 sq. m. (2.93 or more cubic feet per 307 sq. ft.) will
provide a faster grass cover. A minimum planting rate should
be .17 cubic meters per 92 sq. m. (0.60 cubic feet per 307 sq.
ft.) Sprigs or stolons should be broadcast on a clean seedbed
and pressed into moist soil with a roller or covered lightly
with soil or mulch. Moist conditions must be maintained for 2
to 3 weeks after planting to obtain a good cover.
Seed or sprigs should not be
planted when soil temperature is below 18°C (64°F.) Planting
too early may retard development of a turf and extend the
critical establishment period several weeks. Soil temperatures
of 20 to 24°C (68 to 75°F) are ideal for germination and rapid
development of bermudagrass.
Bonsai
Boy of New York - Bonsai Trees Make Great Gift Ideas!
Fertilizer, as determined by
a soil test, should be incorporated into the soil during
seedbed preparation. Nitrogen fertilizer can be applied to the
soil surface immediately prior to planting or at the time of
planting at a rate of 0.5 kg. per 92 sq. m (1 lb. per 307 sq.
ft.) Nitrogen should be applied in 3 to 4 week intervals until
a cover is obtained.
Mowing should begin
several weeks after planting to control weed growth and
promote spreading of bermudagrass. If additional weed
control is needed, selected post-emergence herbicides can be
applied 3 to 4 weeks after planting. Pre-emergence herbicides
should not be applied to bermudagrass turf during the first
growing season.
Weed control will greatly
enhance bermudagrass growth and coverage.
Management
Bermudagrasses, in general,
are drought tolerant; that is, they survive dry soil
conditions longer than most turfgrasses. However, drought
tolerance in bermudagrass is based on their ability to become
semidormant during severe droughts and to recover from stolons
and rhizomes when moisture becomes available. The grass does
not provide a desirable turf under drought conditions.
Bermudagrass does
respond readily to irrigation. In general, water
requirements of bermudagrass depend on turf use and climatic
factors such as temperature, wind, humidity, and light
intensity. Water requirements increase with increasing levels
of maintenance, higher temperatures, higher wind speed, lower
humidity, and greater light intensity. Of course, the longer
the growing season, the greater the water requirement for the
year. Water use rates may range from less than 0.25 to 0.75
cm. (0.125 to 0.3125 in.) per day depending on environmental
conditions.
 The frequency of irrigation is dependent on
water use rate and soil type. Clay soils, for example, hold
more water than sandy soils and, consequently, require less
frequent irrigations. The depth of the rootzone also
influences the frequency of irrigations. Bermudagrass roots
can grow to a depth of two meters or more (6.67 feet or more)
depending on soil profile characteristics. However, the
majority of the root system, 80% or more, is found in the top
15 cm. (6 in.) of soil. Where roots extend several feet into
the soil, thorough and infrequent irrigation produces the most
drought-tolerant turf. Light, frequent irrigations such as
practiced on golf greens produce shallow-rooted grass that
shows drought stress very rapidly.
Bermudagrass does
not tolerate poorly drained sites. On compacted sites and
heavy clay soils, irrigation must be closely controlled to
avoid waterlogged conditions. Hard, compacted sites can often
be improved with respect to water penetration by core aeration
and topdressing with sand or an aggregate material. The
presence of a heavy thatch layer will also interfere with
water penetration.
Thatch removal by vertical mowing
and core aeration also improves water penetration and reduces
the frequency of irrigation required.
Mowing requirements for
bermudagrass turf are dependent on variety, use, and the level
of maintenance. Common bermudagrass and other medium-textured
varieties produce dense, wear-tolerant turf when mowed at
heights between 1 and 2 cm (0.375 and 0.75 in.) The lower
heights are good for golf and sports turf, while the taller
heights are good for lawns. At mowing heights above 0.50 cm.
(0.25 in.,) bermudagrass develops turf with an acceptable
appearance but with poor wear-tolerance. Fine-textured hybrid
bermudagrasses such as Tifway, should be mowed at a height of
0.50 cm. (0.25 in.) or less. Taller mowing heights with these
grasses produce puffy, stemmy turf that is easily scalped
during mowing.
Nature
Hills Nursery Weekly Specials
|
Helpful Hints
If you’re planning to install flowerbeds or a veggie
garden at some point in the relatively near future, you
may want to rope that area off now or consider a grass
other than Bermuda. It’s notoriously difficult to kill,
even when you’re really
trying.
| As a
general recommendation to maintain good turf density and
color, no more than 40% of the leaf tissue should be removed
at any mowing. Thus, the shorter the mowing height, the more
frequent the turf must be mowed.
Reel mowers produce the best
cut on bermudagrass turf. However, the number of blades per
cutting reel determines the smoothness of cut. Common
bermudagrass mowed at 0.50 cm. (0.25 in.) or higher can be cut
by a reel with 5 or 6 blades. Common and hybrid bermudagrasses
should be cut by a reel containing 7 blades. At heights below
1 cm (0.375 in.,) 9 to 11 blades per reel are required for a
smooth cut.
Bermudagrasses have a
relatively high fertilizer requirement to maintain a high
level of turf quality. The amount and frequency of
fertilizer required depends on the desired appearance and
growth rate of the turf, length of growing season, soil type,
bermudagrass variety, and the use of the turf. Where high
quality is of critical importance and the turf is mowed
frequently, 0.50 to 0.75 kg. of nitrogen per 92 sq. m. (1 to
1.5 lbs. of nitrogen per 307 sq. ft.) per month may be applied
during the growing season. The lowest rate of nitrogen that
can be applied and still maintain acceptable bermudagrass turf
for sports fields and golf courses is about 0.25 kg. (0.5 lb.)
of N per 92 sq. m. (307 sq. ft.) per month.
Soil types also influence
fertilizer needs. Sandy soils require light but frequent
applications of nitrogen because of low nitrogen retention.
Sandy soils are also typically low in other nutrients such as
phosphorus and potassium and these nutrients must also be
provided through fertilization. Soil tests are required to
determine phosphorus, potassium, calcium, and other nutrient
deficiencies. Potassium is particularly important because of
its contribution to root growth, environmental stress
tolerance (heat, cold and drought,) and wear tolerance.
Potassium has also been found to reduce susceptibility of
bermudagrass to leaf spot diseases.
|
Helpful Hints
Want to get rid of the weed grass sucking up your
precious Bermuda’s soil and air space? Try using a small
paintbrush or basting brush, then apply molasses to the
weed patches. Yep, you read that right –
molasses.
| Bermudagrass
tolerates a wide range in soil reaction, but performs best
between pH 6.5 and 8.0. At pH levels below 6.5, limestone
should be added according to soil test
recommendations.
Bermudagrass varieties also differ
slightly in nitrogen requirements. Common bermudagrass and
selections from common bermudagrass generally have a lower
nitrogen requirement than the hybrid bermudagrasses. Tifgreen
may have the highest requirement for nitrogen in order to
maintain a dark green color and keep seed production to a
minimum. Tifway bermudagrass, which has an inherently dark
green color, requires less nitrogen than Tifgreen. Excessive
nitrogen fertilization, beyond that required to maintain color
and vigor, leads to increased mowing, irrigation, thatch
control, and pest problems, all of which result in higher
maintenance costs.
Turf use has a significant
effect on the amount of fertilizer required. Golf greens,
bowling greens, and tennis courts have a very high nitrogen
requirement; sports fields and golf course fairways have an
intermediate requirement, and lawns and other low maintenance
areas have a low nitrogen requirement.
Hybrid bermudagrasses require
regular cultivation practices — vertical mowing, aeration, and
topdressing - to maintain high quality turf. Bermudagrass golf
greens may require weekly vertical mowing and monthly
topdressing under heavy use conditions. Sports fields and golf
fairways may need these cultural operations on an annual
basis. Without cultivation, bermudagrass turf tends to develop
thatch, grain, and spongy conditions that result in scalping
and a non-uniform appearance.
Common bermudagrass and
selections from common bermudagrass need less cultivation to
prevent thatchy conditions. However, under heavy use, common
bermudagrass needs regular aeration and topdressing to prevent
compaction and maintain turf quality.
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