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Chapter 6: Grass Types Part
2
Bahiagrass
Bahiagrass
is a good all-around purpose grass that has increased in use
due to its ability to survive periods of drought. It
is also a relatively low maintenance grass with less disease
and insect problems than some of the other warm season
grasses.
This warm season perennial from South America
was imported into the Southern USA states over 70+ years ago.
Primarily used extensively for beef production and pastures,
it has also gained favor as a good low maintenance lawn grass
for use in the deep South of the U.S. and other semi-tropical
areas.
Description
Bahiagrass is a warm-season,
dense, tufted perennial bunchgrass that grows from 0.33 to 1
meter (1.10 to 3.33 feet) tall. Its numerous leaves, generally
hairy on the margins and usually flat, are less than 1 cm.
(0.375 in.) wide, up to 30 cm. (11.75 in.) long, and crowd at
the base of the plants. Its stems produce two
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Did You Know?
Bahia grass is a common choice for highway
islands and other pollution-prone areas because it’s so
durable. | or three-forked
terminal seed heads with flat, shiny-appearing spikelets.
Bahiagrass reproduces by seed and spreads vegetatively by
short, heavy runners. It forms a dense, tough sod even on
droughty, sandy soils. Bahiagrass is used for pasture and
conservation. A native to the West Indies and South America,
bahiagrass was introduced into the United States from
Cuba.
Adapted to both sandy and heavy soils, it is
found growing in Florida, the Carolinas, Georgia and in the
Gulf Coast states. The most popular of the bahiagrasses are
Argentine, Pensacola, and Tifton 9 Improved Pensacola
Bahiagrass.
Use and
Adaptation
Bahia is a great
grass for year-round low maintenance requirements during
normal seasons of rainfall. Its most intensive maintenance
practice is its need for weekly (every 5-7 days) mowing
intervals during the growing season.
Propagation
Bahia is somewhat
drought-resistant, but requires watering on a regular basis to
establish the lawn during the seedling stage and to promote
better germination. Argentine requires more water than
Pensacola. Irrigation systems may be required in drought-prone
areas and during dry seasons in the rainy areas. Bahiagrass
will go dormant and turn brown during drought situations but
survives long periods of drought very well. It also responds
quickly to rainfall after droughts, greening up fast.
Management
Bahia has only a few disease
problems, none of which are severe and can usually be managed
through correct fertilization practices. Pests are minor with
the exception of the dreaded Mole Crickets.

Zoysiagrass
Distribution and Origin
Zoysiagrasses are warm season grasses native
to China, Japan, and other parts of Southeast Asia.
The
species was named to commemorate an 18th century Austrian
botanist, Karl von Zois. In 1911, Zoysia matrella was
introduced into the United States from Manila by a U.S.D.A.
botanist, C. V. Piper. Because of its origin, the grass was
commonly called Manila grass.
Piper described the grass
as abundant on or near the seashore of the Philippine Islands.
When closely clipped, it made a beautiful lawn according to
Piper's notes. He suggested that the grass had unusual promise
as a lawn grass along the Gulf Coast and the Atlantic coast of
Florida.
Zoysia japonica, sometimes
called "Japanese lawn grass" or "Korean lawn grass," is a
coarser-textured, but more cold hardy species than Zoysia
matrella. Zoysia japonica was introduced into the United
States i
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Did You Know?
Zoysia is the grass of choice at
Disneyworld’s Epcot
Center! | n 1895 from the
Manchurian Province of China. In the United States, Zoysia
japonica could be expected to do very well as far north as
Maryland. It is a seeded variety of Zoysia.
The third
species of Zoysia used for turf is called Korean velvet grass
or Mascarene grass, Zoysia tenuifolia. It is a very
fine-textured species, but is the least cold-tolerant of the
three species. Zoysia tenuifolia is native to the Far East and
was introduced in the U.S. from the Mascarene Islands. In the
U.S., it is used in southern California as a low-growing
ground cover.
Description
Zoysiagrasses are sod-forming
perennial species that possess both stolons and rhizomes. The
grasses turn brown after the first hard frost and are among
the first warm-season grasses to green up in the spring.
The species vary from extremely fine-textured to
coarse-textured types and the leaf blades are very stiff due
to high silica content.
Leaves are rolled in
the bud shoot. Leaf blades are smooth with occasional hairs
near the base, margins are smooth, and blades are sharply
pointed. Ligule is a fringe of hairs. Auricles are absent.
Leaf sheath is round to slightly flattened, split,
smooth-skinned, but with a tuft of hair at the throat.
Inflorescence is a short terminal spikelike raceme with
spikelets on short appressed pedicels.
Adaptation and Use
A highly versatile
species, zoysiagrasses make ideal lawn grasses in some
situations and can be used on golf courses, parks, and
athletic fields. They can be grown in all kinds of
soils ranging from sands to clays and both acid and alkaline in
reaction. In the U.S., zoysiagrasses are adapted along the
Atlantic coast from Florida to Connecticut and along the Gulf
Coast to Texas. They are also adapted throughout the
transition zone of the U.S. and in California.
In the southern U.S.,
the zoysiagrasses grow well in moderately shaded locations. In
cooler climates, zoysiagrass does not perform as well under
shade as some other species.
Zoysiagrass is extremely
drought-tolerant. Although it does turn straw-colored under
severe drought conditions, it has the capacity to respond to
subsequent irrigation or rainfall. Its water requirements are
similar to those of bermudagrass. The leaf blades of
zoysiagrass are among the first to roll under drought
conditions, thus it tends to conserve moisture more
effectively than other species. Zoysiagrass also has a deep
root system allowing it to more effectively extract water from
greater soil depths.
Zoysiagrass is nearly as salt
tolerant as bermudagrass. It is widely grown along sandy
seashores where drainage is adequate. Zoysiagrass does not
tolerate poorly drained soils whether they are saline or
otherwise.
Zoysiagrasses are
among the most wear-tolerant turfgrasses. However, their slow
rate of growth gives them very poor recuperative
potential. Therefore, they perform satisfactorily on
lawns, golf course fairways, and baseball fields. But, they
are not recommended for football or soccer fields where
traffic is concentrated in certain areas of the field. If the
grass is completely worn in those areas, zoysiagrass is very
slow to fill in the damaged areas.
Varieties
There are three principal
species of zoysiagrass used for turf: Zoysia japonica, Zoysia
matrella, and Zoysia tenuifolia. These species are
differentiated by texture, cold tolerance, and
aggressiveness.
Zoysia japonica, often called
Korean or Japanese lawngrass, was introduced into the U.S. in
1895. Zoysia japonica is more cold-tolerant than the other
species, but is also the most coarse-textured of the three
species. Zoysia japonica is the only zoysiagrass species that
can be established from seed.
Meyer zoysiagrass is an
improved strain of Zoysia japonica. It was selected from a
population of plants grown from seed by the U.S.D.A. in 1941.
It was evaluated by the U.S.D.A., U.S.G.A., and state
universities and released jointly by the U.S.D.A. and U.S.G.A.
in 1951. The selection was named in honor of Frank N. Meyer, a
plant explorer for the U.S.D.A., who made the first collection
of zoysiagrass seed in Korea in 1905.
Meyer was selected primarily
for its texture, color, and vigor compared to other
zoysiagrass selections. Meyer is slow to become established
and must be propagated by sod or sprigs. Once established it
develops a very dense turf, demonstrates good cold tolerance,
and grows well in partial shade. Meyer is best adapted to the
transition zone where summers are too hot and humid for
cool-season grasses and winters too cold for bermudagrass.
Belair and El Toro are new
releases of Zoysia japonica from the U.S.D.A. and the
University of California, respectively. Both are
coarser-textured, but faster-spreading varieties than
Meyer.
Zoysia matrella was
introduced into the U.S. in 1911 from Manilla. It is chiefly a
tropical and subtropical grass, but can be grown as far north
as Connecticut in the U.S. Zoysia matrella grows well in
moderate shade and forms a thick mat in full sun. The leaf
blades of Zoysia matrella are narrow, sharply pointed, and
wiry. In tropical climates, the grass remains green
year-round. But, in cooler climates, it turns brown after
several hard frosts and remains brown until late spring.
Zoysia matrella must be propagated from sprigs and is quite
slow to become established.
Zoysia tenuifolia is the
finest-textured, least winter-hardy of the zoysiagrasses. It
has very fine, short, wiry leaf blades and forms a dense,
fluffy turf. It is extremely slow to spread and is most often
used as a ground cover.
Emerald zoysiagrass is
a hybrid between Zoysia japonica and Zoysia tenuifolia and was
released by the U.S.D.A. and the Georgia Agricultural
Experiment Station in 1955. Emerald combines the fine texture
of Zoysia tenuifolia with the cold tolerance and faster spread
rate of Zoysia japonica. Emerald is similar to Zoysia matrella
in appearance and habit.
Most Zoysiagrasses are
established from sprigs, sod, or seeds, but the Zoysia
japonica can be only established from seed and not from sprigs
or sod.
Meyer and Emerald zoysiagrass, Manila grass,
and Zoysia tenuifolia must be propagated vegetatively from
sprigs, plugs, or sod. The slow rate of spread of zoysiagrass
makes seedbed preparation and planting techniques very
important to successful establishment of a zoysia
turf.
The seedbed should be finely pulverized, smooth,
firm, and weed-free prior to planting. Zoysiagrass sod may be
shredded or torn apart to provide sprigs or it may be cut into
5-centimeter (2-inch) sod plugs for planting. A sprig should
consist of a section of stem or rhizome with 2 or more nodes.
Leaves do not
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Helpful Hints
Try to stay off your zoysia during its
dormant season (usually winter). Any worn spots become
great locations for weeds during the next few growing
seasons. | need to be
present.
Sprigs should be planted no more than
4 cm (1.50 in.) apart in rows spaced 15.25 centimeters (6
inches) apart, or broadcast over an area at a rate of .35
cubic meters per 92 sq. m (1.20 cubic feet per 307 sq. ft.) If
planted in rows, it is important that the sprigs not be
completely covered with soil. At least one node
should be above soil level. If sprigs are broadcast over the
surface, they should be rolled to insure good soil contact.
Freshly sprigged zoysiagrass must be kept moist for several
weeks after planting. And, special attention should be given
to weed control since zoysiagrass is much less aggressive than
bermudagrass and some of the common turf weed.
A newly planted zoysiagrass
turf should be fertilized with a 1-2-1 or similar fertilizer
at a rate of 0.50 kg of nitrogen per 92 sq. m. (1 lb. of
nitrogen per 307 sq. ft.) of area at the time of planting.
Monthly applications of nitrogen at 0.25 to 0.50 kg per 92 sq.
m. (0.50 to 1 lb. per 307 sq. ft.) will promote the spread of
zoysiagrass.
Sprigging is the least
expensive method of planting zoysiagrass and usually gives a
faster rate of cover than plugging. However, keeping the soil
moist during the establishment period is most critical with
sprigs. Small plantings of zoysiagrass sprigs can be covered
with a clear polyethylene tarp to maintain adequate moisture
and increase soil temperature in the early spring. The cover
can be left in place for several weeks or until temperatures
get too hot. The plastic cover can increase the rate of spread
of zoysiagrass and reduce the time required to obtain a
complete cover. The best time for planting zoysiagrass is late
spring and early summer.
Zoysiagrasses grow
from early spring through late fall when moisture and nutrient
requirements are met. Although zoysiagrass is
considered to be a drought-tolerant species, it ceases growth
and begins to discolor during extended dry periods. To
maintain growth, zoysiagrass requires 1 to 2 cm (0.375 to 0.75
in.) of water per week during mid-summer, although it can
survive on less than 2.5 cm (1 inch) of water per week. Water
should be applied 2 to 3 times per week depending on
temperatures and soil conditions.
 Sandy soils require more frequent
irrigations than heavier clay soils; and, as temperatures
increase, irrigation frequency must increase. During prolonged
droughts, when it is impractical to water enough to maintain
growth, weekly applications of as little as 1 cm (0.375 in.)
of water are adequate enough to keep the grass
alive.
During dry winter months, zoysiagrass requires
occasional irrigation to prevent desiccation and serious loss
of cover even through the grass may be dormant.
Zoysiagrass requires a
moderate level of nitrogen fertilizer to maintain a dense
turf. In lawn situations, 2 or 3 applications of nitrogen
during the growing season will maintain turf density and
color. Each application should provide about 0.5 kg of
nitrogen per 92 sq. m. (1 lb. of nitrogen per 307 sq. ft.) of
area.
Applications should be made in late spring,
early summer, and fall. In areas where zoysiagrass remains
green year-round, frequent applications of soluble nitrogen
fertilizers will help maintain a green color during the cool
season (usually 0.5 kg of soluble nitrogen per 92 sq. m. [1
lb. of soluble nitrogen per 307 sq. ft.] per month from
October through March will suffice.) When zoysiagrass goes
dormant during the winter, discontinue fertilization until
spring.
Close, frequent mowing produces the finest
zoysiagrass turf. But, most people compromise some quality for
less frequent mowing. On lawns growing in full sun,
zoysiagrass may be mowed at a height of 2 to 4 cm (0.75 to
1.50 in.) every 5 to 7 days. Less frequent mowing at these
recommended heights results in scalping and generally poor
quality turf.
In shaded sites, zoysiagrass
should be mowed slightly higher than recommended for lawns in
full sun. Mowing frequency should not change for shaded sites
even though the mowing height is slightly increased.
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Helpful Hints
If you let the thatch get above 1.25 cm.
(0.5 in.,) use a power rake to clean it up and get your
lawn looking gorgeous
again. | Zoysiagrass lawns
tend to build up a thatch layer, a layer of undecomposed
organic residues just above the soil surface. Proper mowing is
essential to prevent the accumulation of thatch in zoysiagrass
turf. Frequent mowing at recommended heights and
clipping removal help prevent thatch accumulation. Avoiding
excessive applications of nitrogen fertilizer also helps
prevent thatch accumulation.
Occasionally, thatch removal
by mechanical means is required to prevent serious
deterioration of zoysiagrass turf. Vertical mowers or flail
mowers may be used to remove excess thatch from zoysiagrass
turf. Thatch removal should be done well before fall to allow
ample time for regrowth.
Scalping the lawn in early
spring to remove accumulated growth will also help prevent
thatch accumulation.
Zoysiagrasses are
relatively free of serious pest problems. Brownpatch,
rust, and leaf spot diseases can cause problems in zoysiagrass
turf, but the grass usually recovers when environmental
conditions change. In intensively-maintained lawns, fungicides
may be needed to prevent these diseases. In the fall,
applications of other products are required to prevent rust on
zoysia lawns.
White grubs are the major
insect attacking zoysiagrass turf. Monitoring the soil
underlying the turf during summer and fall is the most
effective way of preventing a grub problem. When populations
of grubs exceed 44 to 55 per square meter (per 3.33 square
feet) of turf, treatment with insecticides is recommended.

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